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Kebabs, Biryani and So Much More: Indian City Gains Recognition on Unesco Culinary List.

Biryani being prepared using the traditional Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a paste of flour.

Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.

Worldwide Recognition

Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".

The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.

"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Succulent kebabs being served
Lucknow is famous for its incredibly tender kebabs.

An Imperial Food Tradition

The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.

It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.

A Diverse Culinary Landscape

In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Cloud-like dessert a winter specialty
The city offers special treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a special frothy dessert, during winter months.

Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops

Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.

To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Iconic tea stall offering masala chai
A legendary tea stall is celebrated for its creamy spiced tea.

Preserving Tradition for the Future

The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.

On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are unwilling to master the art.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.

The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.

The writer

Julian Moreno

A Vienna-based cultural journalist passionate about documenting Austria's vibrant arts scene and fostering community engagement.

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